Wellington boosts

Life can be tough for a city tucked away at the bottom of the world. Wellington, New Zealand's capital, knows how it feels to be the last kid to be picked for the school sports team. It has been through years of virtual obscurity, skulking in the shadows of its bigger and brasher neighbour, Auckland, and the tourist honey traps of Australia and Fiji. Diplomats winced when told they were Wellington-bound and even Kiwis would turn up their noses at a trip to their capital. Not any more.

Wellington has rebooted, bursting into bloom as a charming, artistic and sophisticated city. It is awash with alternative cafes, elegant restaurants and bars to match those in Sydney or Melbourne. There is a full dance card of theatres and galleries and the national museum, Te Papa, is the envy of many European capitals.

It is very much the favoured place to live for Kiwis but, despite this, its population still has not topped half a million, even when you include the forested valleys on its outskirts.

Wellington is also registering on the global celebrity radar as it has been the nerve-centre for the making of the Lord of the Rings trilogy, the third of which (The Return of the King) is still in production there. The cafes are overrun with American and Scottish hobbits (Elijah Wood and Billy Boyd), Australian princesses (Cate Blanchett) and thespian mystics (Ian Holm and Ian McKellen).

Visitors are also discovering that it is intensely picturesque. Given the city's position facing the tempestuous Pacific and Southern oceans, and the meteorological bombardment it takes from their gales and swells, it should by rights be a southern hemisphere equivalent of Lerwick or Labrador.

Wellington's claim to be the world's windiest city puts Chicago's bid firmly in the shade. Yet, between the storms and racing clouds, the city maintains a calm and genteel air, a mild climate and long days of balmy summer sunshine.

Mount Victoria in the centre of town is the best place to see the city living up to its peaceful reputation. The gabled, weatherboard houses file pleasingly over multiple volcanic ridges which divide the city into lush valleys. They are mauve and cobalt and yellow, like children's toys.

The architecture has been compared to San Francisco, the harbour to Seattle and the surrounding hillsides to Tasmania but this vista is neither American nor Australian. Wellington has one of the most individual and distinctive cityscapes. It is also a powerful city, housing NZ's government in a controversial building nicknamed the Beehive.

Wellingtonians are known for their resilient spirit, living in a city that rests upon an active fault line. During my visit to Te Papa's Awesome Forces exhibition, I was startled to learn that Wellington experiences frequent tremors, with several minor earthquakes occurring in just three days. Remarkably, the locals have developed a nonchalant attitude towards these quakes, casually tracking the vibrations in their glasses of local Pinot Noir and continuing with their daily routines.

However, Wellington's rise as a vibrant destination cannot be solely attributed to chance. The city's revival can be credited to the well-executed Absolutely Positively Wellington campaign, which has successfully placed Wellington back on the tourism radar. It comes as no surprise that visitors and even former Auckland residents speak highly of Wellington, describing it as a place where you feel genuinely content.

· Matthew Brace enjoyed his time in Wellington as a guest of Air New Zealand and the Absolutely Positively Wellington campaign.

Arts
The main Visitor Information Centre in Civic Square (corner of Victoria and Wakefield St) has a free arts map to galleries, museums and heritage sites. A must-see is Te Papa (Cable St, tel: 04 381 7000, fax: 04 381 7070, email: mail@tepapa.govt.nz, tepapa.govt.nz), a waterfront museum and gallery (see the Awesome Forces exhibition complete with earthquake simulator and traditional Maori marae, or meeting house). The restaurant Icon is also excellent. Free tours of parliament buildings (corner of Lambton Quay and Molesworth St, tel: 04 471 9503, ps.parliament.govt.nz) are hourly. Visitor centre open Mon - Fri 10am-5pm, Sat 10am-4pm, Sun 12pm-4pm.

For a handy gig guide visit: thepackage.co.nz.

Eats
There are 400 restaurants and cafes in Wellington and a good place to start is Cuba St. For breakfast try local favourite Fidels. Olive, is a good alternative if Fidels is packed. Cafe L'Affare (27 College Street, tel: 04 385 9748, laffare.co.nz) has arguably the best coffee in town. Best for dinner is Logan Brown (corner Cuba and Vivian St, tel: 04 801 5114, fax: 04 801 9776, loganbrown.co.nz), housed in a former 1920s bank. Regulars include government ministers, Lord of the Rings stars and All Black super-winger Jonah Lomu.

Beverage Venues
Kick off your evening at the fresh and exciting Matterhorn (106 Cuba St), renowned for its fantastic cocktail selection and staff exhibiting a unique VietCong flair. Should you wish to experience a slice of quirky history, then the Good Luck Bar (found in the basement at 126 Cuba Street) awaits. With its interior reminiscent of a Chinese opium den, it's a popular spot amongst the 'hobbits' who frequently enjoy a night out there. Motel on Forresters Lane is your ultimate destination if you're a fan of late-night gatherings. The design inspirations here are drawn from Communist-era visuals of a Prague metro station which makes it an aesthetic treat. This lounge bar boasts friendly staff, comfortable booths, and soothing background music, making it a perfect place to unwind and close out your night.

Accommodation Choices
Your top choice for a stay should be the Duxton (170 Wakefield St, tel: 04 473 3900 or 04 471 5717, fax: 473 3929, email: reservations@wellington.duxton.co.nz, duxton.com). Located in the heart of the city, this hotel offers breathtaking views of the harbour. Another worthy consideration is the James Cook Grand Chancellor (147 The Terrace, tel: 04 499 9500 , fax: 04 499 9800, grandhotelsinternational.com, jamescookhotel.com). Both these hotels not only provide comfort but also boast of being prime locations for sightseeing. For those seeking to explore other regions, there is a wide selection of resorts in North Island to consider. These resorts offer magnificent views, comfortable accommodations and a variety of activities, making for the perfect holiday destination. Alternatively, if you are planning on travelling further afield, why not book hotel in Australia at tophotels.com? They offer a variety of options from budget-friendly lodges to extravagant luxury hotels, catered to suit every kind of traveller.

Days out

Wine tours
To organise a Martinborough wine tour contact Martinborough Visitor Centre (tel: 06 306 9043, fax: 306 8033, wairarapanz.com), the train company Tranz Metro (tel (free in NZ): 0800 843 596, tranzmetro.nz), or the vineyards direct. Pinot Noir put Martinborough on the wine map but also check out the Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris.

Vineyards to visit
Murdoch James Estate (Dry River Road, tel: 06 306 9165, fax: 06 306 9120, murdochjames.co.nz, open daily 11am-5.30pm), organic vineyard which has created refuges for wildlife. Te Kairanga (Martins Road, tel: 06 306 9122 , fax: 06 306 9322, tkwine.co.nz, daily 10am-5pm) produces, for my money, the most drinkable Pinot. Alana Estate (Puruatanga Road, tel: 06 306 9784, fax: 06 306 9789, alana.co.nz), as we go to press, was bidding to be key supplier for Fortnum and Mason. Open daily 10.30am-5pm.

Experience Wellington by Sea
Bask in the captivating beauty of Cook Strait by embarking on the Inter Island Ferry journey from Wellington to Picton, South Island, an extraordinary marine voyage that can sometimes be notably turbulent. More information can be procured from the Information Centre.

Thrill-seeking Adventures
Known for its exhilarating inventions, New Zealand introduces its most recent sensation - Fly By Wire. This invention has you reclining on a rocket held by cables, propelling at speeds of over 100mph and soaring above a verdant valley, mere inches from the ground. Its creator, Neil Harrap, compares this thrilling experience to piloting a jet fighter. To experience this electrifying adventure, make a booking by calling (free in NZ): 0800 359 299, or 025 300 366, fax: 03 442 2116, or visit flybywire.co.nz.

Green Wellies
See the fur seals lounging on the rocks of the Cook Strait with Seal Coast Safari (tel: 025 534 880, email: sealtour@xtra.co.nz. sealcoast.com). Karori Wildlife Sanctuary (tel: 04 920 9200, sanctuary.org.nz) is a unique conservation project where 252 hectares of habitat are slowly being transformed into original native forest, to resemble what this part of NZ looked like thousands of years ago. Take walking boots for this Wellington must-see.

Sports
Wellington is a big rugby town. The local town club is the Lions. One step up is Hurricanes, one of five NZ teams in the southern hemisphere Super 12 tournament. Not forgetting the All Blacks who play at a stadium in town known affectionately as the Cake Tin and where England recently triumphed in their World Cup warm-up game.

Shopping
Local olive oils and cheeses at Kapiti Olive Shop at Lindale Centre (theoliveshop.com), an hour's drive north up State Highway One along the Kapiti coast. In Martinborough, visit the Martinborough Wine Village (6 Kitchener St, Martinborough, tel: 06 306 9040, fax: 306 9070, martinboroughwinecentre.co.nz, open 9am-5pm daily). CDs are cheap in NZ so stack up at Real Groovy Records (corner Cuba and Abel Smith St, tel: 04 385 2020, realgroovy.com, open daily).

More information
Visitor Information Centre in Civic Square (corner of Victoria and Wakefield St, wellingtonnz.com). Also check out Air New Zealand's website at airnewzealand.com.